The 'beginning' of the oyster season is marked with festivals in September and October. The old saying about not eating oysters in a month not containing the letter 'r' is to do with the fact that they spawn in the summer months and can lose flavour at this time. 'Native' oysters are the traditional British oyster, most famously exploited in Colchester and Whitstable. These are now farmed along with Pacific oyster varieties, which are also tasty. Oysters can be eaten both raw and cooked. Raw, choose the small, sweet ones, particularly if you are new to eating them raw, as they will slip down much more easily. We find red wine vinegar with diced shallots an excellent accompaniment. One of the nicest ways to cook oysters is in the following recipe for Oysters Kilpatrick.

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